Katra, Chowk

Monu Singh relates, “Our shop has seen three generations. It was started by my grandfather, Mool Chand (Mullu). After him, my father Vishwanath (Bisso) took over, and now I am carrying the tradition forward. I never saw my grandfather. He had passed away before I was born. My father had started helping at the shop since he was a child, and I too started when I was seven or eight. I have learnt the craft from my father.” Bisso used to operate from a hand cart placed further inside the lane to start with. He later found the current premises and was able to secure them. Earlier, they dealt only in khasta. Now they sell matar, chhole, kachauri, poori, bhatura and gulabjamun. Preparations begin early in the morning at 5 AM. The khastas are fried in mustard oil. Onions and garlic are not used for the accompanying chhole and matar, but sliced onions are served to customers who ask. “As far as I recall, I myself have sold a khasta for 50 paise. It is now ₹ 10. Even if I am not in the shop, our employees are expert in handling everything themselves. We have taught them what to add and when to add it to the dish under preparation. We have recipes that have come down from my grandfather to my father, and now to me.” As we talked, an old customer came up. He confirmed that he had been buying snacks from here since his childhood.